Baka Socks

September 24th, 2022 - I am moving away from Blogger. You can find my new blog here.
Updated Baka Socks Post here.

Knitting socks can be friggin' intimidating.

Advanced heel and toe construction to get something that fits the shape of a foot is an art form, so I bow down to true sock experts. This is not that.

My growing pile of unfinished objects was starting to stress me out, and I really needed some instant gratification. You know, the kind you get from actually finishing a project (any project..... ... ...*sigh*) and these delivered in that department. This is a one-afternoon type of project. Also great for last minute gifts! This is a perfect first attempt if you have been feeling intimidated by sock designs, and want to dip a toe into the sock waters.

It's not truly a sock (it's just too chunky, I think it looks best over a regular, thin sock) but more like a slipper to wear around the house for extra warmth. And extra style. Just because I'm hunkering down in my knitting "den" for hours at a time doesn't mean I don't get to wear cute shit while doing it.

Disclaimer: once you're done they will look like tiny clown shoes, but not to worry, they stretch out, and clean up nice once on an actual foot. I love giving these away as gifts because when people first see them they can't help but laugh, and think it's a gag gift. Then they are surprised and amazed once they try them on. If you have a clown in your life, or just someone you want to call a clown (or you are a clown yourself) you definitely need a pair of these clown socks in your life.

clown shoes :)

but they stretch out really well to the shape of your feet

This is an amazing stashbuster for leftover bulky yarn. This uses less than 1 skein of super bulky yarn for both socks. I weighed them and they come in at 84-86g (the yarn I used is 127g for 82m) so that should mean I used 54-56m of yarn.... right? Let me know if this is not the proper way to measure how much yarn you used, it was the best I could come up with. But according to my calculations that's 66-68% of the skein, and you could probably even get it down closer to 1/2 a skein if you made your rib cuff shorter. It's an easy project -- no short rows, no heel flaps, no gussets, no toe magic. The design relies on the stretchiness from using 8mm needles and bulky yarn, and a few strategic increases and decreases to get a basic shape. It's also why they are one size fits most. But you can easily make them slightly smaller or larger, and I give some ideas on that later. you can knit, purl, and do a few basic increases and decreases, you are in business baby.

Note: Both left and right are identical, so they can easily be made simultaneously on long circular needles. You just have to park one of them on some scrap yarn when you join the stitches one sock at a time :)

Needle Size: 8mm (US 11, UK 0)

Yarn: 56m or 62 yd. of Super Bulky wool (I used a 50% wool 50% acrylic blend)

Gauge: shmauge ........... **listen, I’m not an expert, but just knit how you like, these will still turn out fine. There are projects where gauge is obviously very important - this is not one of them.

Basic Techniques Used & Other Abbreviations:

• CO = cast on

• RS = right side

• WS = wrong side

• sl1 wyf = slip 1 stitch with yarn in front

• sl1 wyb = slip 1 stitch with yarn in back

• k = knit

• p = purl

• PFB = purl through front, and then back of the loop (single increase)

• yo = yarn over (single increase with decorative hole)

• SSK = slip slip knit (left leaning single decrease)

• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together (right leaning single decrease)

• * = repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed

• st = stitch

• you must know a super stretchy cast on method -- I use the single loop cast on which is somewhat unpopular, but it's what I prefer and get great results with

Okayyyyy, now that that's all out of the way, let's get started.

Section 1: Ribbed Cuff

CO 19 sts with your favourite stretchy cast on (I use the single loop cast on but whatever you use it must be very stretchy... I would suggest maybe the German Twisted Cast On if you really hate the single loop cast on) and then work 1x1 rib as follows:

Row 1 (WS): sl1 wyf, *k1, p1* end with p1

Row 2 (RS): sl1 wyb, *p1, k1* end with k1

 

Repeat row 1 and 2 until you reach desired cuff size. I do 10 rows. End on RS.

The next part has written instructions as well as a chart pattern (Fig.1 below). Use whichever you prefer. If using the chart, you can skip to the bottom of the next section titled Lace Increase.

Section 2: Lace Increases

Previous Step: You ended the Ribbed Cuff section on a RS row.

Next row:

Row 1 (WS): sl1 wyf, p8, PFB, *p to end (increased by 1 st = 20 sts)

Row 2 (RS): sl1 wyb, k7, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, *k to end (increased by 5 sts = 25 sts)

Row 3: sl1 wyf, *p to end

Row 4: sl1 wyb, k7, yo, k1tbl, k1, yo, k1tbl, k1, yo, k1tbl, yo, k1, k1tbl, yo, k1, k1tbl, yo, *k to end (increased by 6 sts = 31 sts)

Row 5: sl1 wyf, *p to end

Row 6: sl1 wyb, k7, yo, k1tbl, k2, yo, k1tbl, k2, yo, k1tbl, k1, k1tbl, yo, k2, k1tbl, yo, k2, k1tbl, yo, *k to end (increased by 6 sts = 37 sts)

Row 7: sl1 wyf, *p to end

Row 8: sl1 wyb, k7, yo, k1tbl, k3, yo, k1tbl, k3, yo, k1tbl, k3, k1tbl, yo, k3, k1tbl, yo, k3, k1tbl, yo, *k to end (increased by 6 sts = 43 sts)

Row 8 is a RS row. We are done with the lace increases, and the next part will be the sole construction and decreases.

Section 3: Sole Decreases

Previous Step: You ended the Lace Increases section on a RS row.

Next row:

Row 1: (WS) sl1 wyf, *p to end

Row 2: (RS) sl1 wyb, *k to end

Row 3: sl1 wyf, *k to last stitch, p1

Row 4: sl1 wyb, *k to end

Row 5: sl1 wyf, *k to last stitch, p1

Row 6: sl1 wyb, *p to last stitch, k1

Row 7: sl1 wyf, k1, SSK, k2, SSK, k2, SSK, k7, SSK, k1, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1, p1    (reduced by 8 sts = 35 sts)

Row 8: sl1 wyb, *p to last stitch, k1

Row 9: sl1 wyf, SSK, k1, SSK, k11, SSK, k10, k2tog, k1, k2tog, p1

(reduced by 5 sts = 30 sts)

Row 10: sl1 wyb, *p14 (this is the halfway point - you should now have 15 sts on each needle)

Break the yarn, leaving about 3x the length of the seam

Section 4: Finishing

Use Kitchener Stitch or your preferred method to join the 30 stitches together. You have 15 stitches on each needle. Since you worked the previous row to the halfway point, you are joining them starting at the toe, and finishing at the heel.

How to do Kitchener Stitch on reverse stockinette: 

The yarn should be attached to the back needle. Thread it through a tapestry needle. 

Set up step: 

1. Go into the 1st st on the front needle KNITWISE (leave st on the needle) 

2. Go into the 1st st on the back needle PURLWISE (leave st on the needle) 

Repeat step: 

1. Go into the 1st st on the front needle PURLWISE and SLIP it off the needle 

2. Go into the next st on the front needle KNITWISE and LEAVE it on the needle 

3. Go into the 1st st on the back needle KNITWISE and SLIP it off the needle 

4. Go into the next st on the back needle PURLWISE and LEAVE it on the needle

Next, seam the back ankle rib edges together using a basic Whipstitch on the outer edge loops so that you have no extra bulkiness along this seam.

Weave in your ends and you're done!

Final Thoughts:

These socks are suuuper stretchy, so they are one size fits most. I'm not a pattern writer, I'm offering this as a guide to you, and hope that you use it as a template if you need to increase or decrease the size. I'm a 7 or 7.5 (US shoe size) and I have successfully given these away to women who wear sizes between 6 and 9 and it fit them all. There's a number of things you could do to alter the size of these to your liking, but here are my suggestions:

If you want to make them smaller: reduce the # of lace increases in Section 2

If you want to make them bigger: add another row of lace increases in Section 2 (for example: sl1 wyb, k12, yo, k1tbl, k4, yo, k1tbl, k5, k1tbl, yo, k4, k1tbl, yo, *k to end (increased by 4 sts = 47 sts))

If that doesn't make sense, and you would like my unprofessional opinion on a modification you're attempting, shoot me a message and I'll try to weigh in on the best approach.

And that's it, we made it to the end! You are now the proud owner/creator of some badass clown socks, you lovely clown!

This was my first ever pattern write up, so if you have any questions/concerns/problems or general chit chat about your experience making these, I'd love to hear it. Find me on all socials @knitwoolf. I'd love to see your creations!